An encyclopedia of jewellery through history · 1700–1950

A Jewellery History

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British Silver Hallmarks Explained

The sterling and Britannia standards, the lion passant, lion's head erased, Scottish thistle and lion rampant, Irish harp, the 925 mark, and why so much antique silver jewellery carries no hallmark.

In a British silver hallmark, the standard mark shows which legal silver alloy a piece was tested against. For most of history there have been only two: sterling and the higher Britannia standard. What changed over time, and between England, Scotland and Ireland, is the symbol used to mark them. For how the standard mark sits with the other marks, see What Is a Hallmark?.

The Sterling Standard (925)

Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, usually alloyed with copper. It has been the legal standard in England since the statute of 1300, and nearly all British silver jewellery from 1700 to 1950 is sterling or intended to be.

Where marked Sterling mark In use
England (London, Birmingham, Sheffield, Chester and others) Lion passant - a lion walking left, one forepaw raised From 1544
Edinburgh Thistle 1759-1975
Glasgow Lion rampant 1819-1964 (office closed)
Scotland, from 1975 Lion rampant From 1975
Dublin Crowned harp From the 17th century
All UK offices, from 1999 “925” in an oval, with the traditional symbol optional From 1999

The Britannia Standard (958)

Between 1697 and 1720 the minimum standard for English silver was raised to 95.8%, partly to stop people melting down coins of sterling silver to make plate. Britannia silver is marked with a seated figure of Britannia, and the London leopard’s head was replaced during this period by a lion’s head erased - a lion’s head in profile with a jagged, torn-off neck. Sterling was restored in 1720, but Britannia has remained an optional higher standard ever since and turns up occasionally on later pieces, especially Arts and Crafts silver.

The Duty Mark, 1784-1890

From 1 December 1784 a tax was charged on silver and gold wares, and the sovereign’s head in profile was struck to show it had been paid. George III’s head appears first, followed by George IV, William IV and Victoria. The duty was abolished in 1890, so a head mark beside the lion passant places a piece between those dates. Don’t confuse it with the optional commemorative heads struck for the 1935 Silver Jubilee (George V and Queen Mary together) and the 1953 Coronation.

Why Antique Silver Jewellery Is So Often Unmarked

Silver jewellery is much less consistently hallmarked than silver tableware. Small and light items were exempt from compulsory marking for long periods, and today any silver item under 7.78 grams is still exempt. Many Victorian silver brooches, lockets and bangles therefore carry no hallmark at all, or only a maker’s “STERLING” or “SILVER” stamp.

A fully hallmarked Victorian silver brooch is the exception. When one does turn up, the Birmingham anchor is the most common office mark, because Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter produced a large share of Britain’s silver jewellery.

Imported Silver

From 1867 imported silver assayed in Britain was additionally struck with a letter “F” in an oval. From 1904 imported wares received their own distinct office symbols, with the standard shown as a decimal (.925). These marks are common on continental silver jewellery and watch cases sold in Britain in the early 20th century, and they mean the piece was made abroad, not that it is British.

Silver Marks That Aren’t Hallmarks

“STERLING”, “STER”, “925” on its own, “800” or “SILVER” stamped without an office mark and date letter are makers’ or retailers’ claims, not British hallmarks. “800” and “835” in particular usually indicate continental silver, made to lower standards than British sterling. “EPNS” (electroplated nickel silver) and “A1” mean silver-plated base metal. See Silver in Historical Jewellery for the wider history.

What the Mark Covers

As with gold, a silver hallmark describes the marked part only. On a bracelet or necklace this is often the clasp or a single link, and replacement fittings are common. Read the mark together with the style and construction of the whole piece; see How to Use Hallmarks to Date Jewellery.