An encyclopedia of jewellery through history · 1700–1950

A Jewellery History

Techniques

What Is Engraving?

What hand-engraving is, the gravers used, bright-cut engraving from the 1770s, inscriptions, signets and Aesthetic-style silver, and how engraving differs from chasing and underlies niello.

Engraving is a metalworking technique in which a sharp hand tool cuts fine lines directly into a metal surface, removing a narrow sliver of metal to create crisp, permanent linear designs, lettering and decorative patterns.

A gold bracelet of curved, interlocking links engraved with stylised foliage, centred on a large oval cabochon emerald flanked by small diamonds.
Bracelet, possibly Germany, 1850-70. Gold, cabochon emerald and diamonds, the links engraved with foliage. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum · Public Domain

What Engraving Is Structurally

Hand-engraving is done with a graver, also called a burin - a short bar of hardened steel with a sharpened, angled point, set in a mushroom-shaped wooden handle that sits in the palm. The engraver pushes it through the surface of the metal to cut away a fine, continuous sliver, leaving a crisp groove with clean edges. Because the engraver controls the depth and angle by hand, lines can swell and taper, which suits both flowing ornament and legible lettering.

The Engraver’s Tools

Gravers are made in several sections, each giving a different line:

  • Square and lozenge gravers cut V-shaped lines and are the standard tools for lettering and outlines.
  • Flat and round gravers cut broad, flat-bottomed or rounded grooves and are used for clearing backgrounds and for bright-cutting.
  • Spitstickers, with slightly curved sides, cut fine curving lines.
  • Line or multiple-line gravers have a toothed face that cuts several parallel lines at once, used for shading and textured grounds.

The work was held in an engraver’s block or on a round leather sandbag, so that it could be turned smoothly against the tool as a curved line was cut. Engraving was often a separate trade: many Victorian jewellers sent rings, lockets and presentation pieces out to specialist engravers for lettering and crests.

Bright-Cut Engraving

Bright-cutting uses a polished graver held at an angle to cut faceted, bevelled grooves whose sides reflect light, so the pattern glitters. It became fashionable on English silver in the 1770s-1790s, where it suited Neoclassical swags and borders cut into thin sheet, and it returned in Victorian silver jewellery: bangles, lockets, collars and name brooches of the 1870s-1890s were often bright-cut with ferns, flowers and scrolls. The same method was used to finish the metal between stones in pavé setting.

Typical Jewellery Applications

Engraving is the technique behind personal inscriptions - monograms, initials, dates and mottoes - cut into rings, lockets and keepsake pieces. Two jewellery types depend on it particularly closely: the signet ring, whose flat bezel is engraved in reverse with a monogram, crest or device so that it prints correctly when pressed into wax, and the posy ring, whose short verse is engraved into the band, often on the inside.

Other characteristic uses include:

  • Mourning rings. The name, date of death and age of the deceased were engraved around 18th-century mourning rings, often with the letters filled with black enamel.
  • Heraldic engraving. Crests and coats of arms on signet rings and fob seals followed the conventions of heraldry, including hatching patterns that indicate colours in a single-colour engraving.
  • Aesthetic movement silver. In the 1870s and 1880s, inspired by Japanese art, Birmingham and London makers produced silver brooches, lockets and bangles engraved with birds, fans, bamboo and blossom, often with applied gold details.
  • Watch cases and lockets. Engraved foliate scrolls and cartouches surrounding a blank space for a monogram were standard on 19th-century pieces.

Gem engraving - carving seals and intaglios in hardstone - is a related but separate craft, done with rotating wheels and abrasives rather than a graver; see What Is an Intaglio?.

Engraving Versus Chasing

Engraving and chasing can produce similar fine-line effects on a finished piece. Engraving cuts into the metal with a sharp graver, removing a sliver along each line, while chasing uses blunt punches and a hammer to displace the surface metal, removing nothing. A skilled chaser can produce lines that resemble engraving without cutting the metal, so the distinction matters more to how a piece was made than to how it looks at a glance.

Engraving as the Basis for Niello

Niello usually begins as engraved lines cut in exactly the way described here; the recesses are then filled with a black sulphide compound that is fused in place and polished flush with the surrounding surface. Many niello pieces are therefore engraved pieces underneath their black fill.

Machine Engraving

Machine methods gradually took over routine work. Engine-turning on the rose engine, used on watch cases and boxes from the 18th century, cut regular geometric patterns mechanically; see What Is Guilloché Enamel?. From the early 20th century, pantograph engraving machines, which follow a master template with a stylus while a cutter reproduces it at reduced size, were widely used for lettering and monograms. By the mid-20th century much commercial lettering was machine-cut.

How to Recognise It

Hand-engraving typically shows a crisp, V-shaped or faceted groove with clean, sharp edges, and under magnification the line varies slightly in width and depth, often tapering at its ends where the graver was lifted out. Small curls of metal or slight overcuts where lines cross are also signs of hand work. Pantograph lettering tends to show lines of uniform width with rounded ends and identical repeated letters, though distinguishing the two reliably often benefits from close examination.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is engraving reversible? Not readily - because engraving removes metal, a badly engraved line generally cannot be corrected without removing metal from the surrounding surface. Old inscriptions are sometimes polished out to allow re-engraving, which leaves the area thinner or slightly dished.

Can engraving appear on cast or stamped jewellery? Yes - engraved detail, particularly personal inscriptions, was routinely added by hand to pieces that were otherwise cast or die-stamped, since the form and the lettering were usually made at separate stages.